Crystallum Peter Max Pinot Noir 2020

Peter Max is a Pinot for Pinot lovers: a juicy, lip-smacking red that comes from five sources blended for pleasure and consistency. Fermented with 50% whole clusters, it's supple, bouncy and full of summer berry fruit with the fine tannins of a Chambolle-Musigny and some nuanced oak spice.

The 2020 Peter Max felt quite austere on the nose, more so than the 2019 that I had tasted 3–4 days previously. This demands coaxing, eventually revealing brambly red fruit, briar, damp moss and then later, hints of morello cherries. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, taut and crisp, delivering very pure tart red fruit. There is an attractive "bite" toward the finish, which is structured like a Morey-Saint-Denis, the lingering salinity urging you back. Excellent, but give it a couple of years for the aromatics to fully open. Drink 2024-2037.

The 2014 Peter Max Pinot Noir comes from four different vineyards - of which two are in Hemel-en-Aarde - includes 20-30% whole bunch fruit and is raised in a judicious 10% new oak; it has plenty of brambly red fruit on the nose, somewhat "airy" in style, not ephemeral but certainly on the lighter side compared to other vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, light red plum and cranberry fruit; it is a little herbaceousness towards the finish that has a Pommard-like character. More early drinking than others, but still well crafted.

First year he made it was in 2008 and it's named after his first two (superseded) growers! Four different vineyards mainly Hemel. Different picks, 15% new oak, 10-30% whole bunch. Light ruby. Warm stones on the nose then quite sweet and fresh on the palate. Easy and lively. Maybe not mind blowing.