Crystallum Mabalel Elandskloof Pinot Noir 2022

The yields were the lowest ever - one third of the average - from this Elandskloof vineyard in 2019, but there's nothing wrong with the quality and no sign of over-concentration on the nose or palate. Dark, intense and vigorous, with floral top notes, impressive structure, some sweet spices from 20% new wood and the raciness that's typical of the site. Consistently impressive. Drink 2022-27.

The 2019 Mabalel includes 10% whole clusters and was matured in 20% new oak for 11 months. It has a wonderful bouquet featuring a mixture of red and black fruit, touches of licorice and menthol emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannins, fine grip and a subtle tobacco note on the finish, which is more austere than I expected. Very fine, but serious. Drink 2023-31.

The 2014 Mabalel Pinot Noir comes from vines located at 700 meters, planted around six years ago. This is 100% destemmed. There is certainly more volume on the nose compared to the 2015 Peter Max, with ebullient red cherries, crushed strawberry and cranberry fruit, as well as a slightly tertiary tincture evident with aeration. The palate is rounded and supple on the entry with a fine line of acidity, touches of mulberry and pomegranate, the 15% new oak nicely integrated and lending body to the finish. It is not quite as complex as the 2013 Maiden, and there is a slight hardness that needs to be abraded, but there is still something satisfying about this Pinot Noir that should offer a decade's worth of pleasure.