Pian dell'Orino Brunello di Montalcino Vigneti del Versante 2017

Pian dell'Orino Brunello di Montalcino Vigneti del Versante 2017

 

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Pian dell'Orino
Brunello di Montalcino Vigneti del Versante 2017
  • Vintage : 2017
  • Country : Italy
  • Region : Tuscany
  • Subregion :
  • Type : Red
  • Style : Rich and Spicy
  • Format : 75cl
  • Alcohol : 14,5°
  • Grappes : 100% Sangiovese

Born from one of Montalcino's most challenging growing seasons, this wine demonstrates the estate's skill in crafting refined structure and aromatic complexity, even in low-yield conditions.

Experts Score Vintage
JD Jeb Dunnuck 97 2017
VN Vinous (Antonio Galloni) 94 2017
More information on wine critics and ratings

Region and Vineyards

The 2017 vintage reflects the essence of Pian dell'Orino's southeastern vineyards—Pian dell'Orino, Cancello Rosso, and Pian Bassolino (both upper and lower parcels)—situated between 320 and 480 metres above sea level. The growing season was marked by an extreme drought, with virtually no rainfall between April and early September. The vines, exposed to intense heat (temperatures reached nearly 40°C in August), produced small berries with thick skins, concentrating flavor and tannin.

The soils are predominantly sedimentary, with layers of calcareous clay, weathered marl, sandstone, and flysch. Volcanic traces from Monte Amiata appear sporadically. Clay-rich soils enhance fruit depth and freshness, while the sandy, well-drained parcels of Cancello Rosso encourage notes of spice and Mediterranean herbs. Despite the challenges, careful vineyard management and precise harvest timing ensured phenolic ripeness without excess sugar or overripeness.

Winemaking

The grapes were hand-harvested and sorted both in the vineyard and on a triage table to ensure only perfectly healthy berries entered fermentation. The spontaneous fermentation began within a day, lasting 12 days at a peak temperature of 34 °C. Due to the thick skins and high tannin levels caused by drought, maceration was limited to three weeks, with a gentle approach to extraction.

Malolactic fermentation occurred naturally in the vat following alcoholic fermentation. Aging was conducted in two large oak barrels (40 hL and 20 hL) for 45 months, allowing the structure to soften and aromatics to evolve. No commercial yeasts, enzymes, or additives were used. The wine was bottled in September 2021, unfiltered and unfined, remaining true to its site-specific character and biodynamic roots.

Tasting Notes

  • Color: Deep ruby with garnet undertones; vibrant and dense.
  • Aroma: Concentrated and layered, with ripe cherry, red plum, and cranberry, offset by dried thyme, cedar, and crushed rock. Subtle balsamic and smoky undertones add depth.
  • Palate: Full and structured, yet lifted by fresh acidity. Notes of spiced red fruits, cocoa, blood orange, and saline minerality unfold over a finely grained tannic frame. Despite the heat of the vintage, the wine maintains balance, length, and refined tension.

Did you know?

The Vigneti del Versante 2017 was harvested between August 28 and 31—one of the earliest Brunello harvests ever for the estate. The team intentionally avoided waiting for September rains, which might have introduced contaminants to the drought-stressed vines. This quick decision preserved aromatic purity and freshness, proving that intuition and timing are as vital as technique in extreme vintages.

Wine Pairing Ideas

  • Chargrilled venison loin with rosemary and blackberries: Matches the wine's structure and highlights its forest fruit and herbal nuances.
  • Porchetta with fennel and garlic: Enhances the spice and savoriness of the wine.
  • Roasted duck with orange and thyme glaze: Echoes the citrus and aromatic herbs in the bouquet.
  • Taleggio or Tuscan pecorino stagionato: Their saltiness and umami bring out the wine's core fruit and depth.

History of Pian dell'Orino

Pian dell'Orino was founded in 1996 by Caroline Pobitzer, an Italian entrepreneur from South Tyrol with deep roots in sustainable agriculture. In 2000, she was joined by Jan Erbach, a German-born winemaker trained in Burgundy and Geisenheim, who became both her partner in life and in the cellar. Together, they transformed the estate into one of Montalcino's most respected and quietly revolutionary producers.

From the outset, the duo envisioned a domaine-style winery that applied Burgundian principles to Tuscan terroir—particularly the idea of vinification parcellaire, or vinifying each plot separately to highlight its unique identity. The estate was one of the first in the region to implement certified biodynamic viticulture, embracing a holistic farming approach based on careful observation of the vines and lunar cycles.

Pian dell'Orino's production is extremely limited, often lower than the Brunello average, with yields kept well below 30 hL/ha. The estate vinifies without selected yeasts, enzymes, or any technological interventions. All wines undergo long ageing in large Stockinger casks, never barriques, to preserve purity and site expression. The estate's philosophy is one of minimal intervention, scientific precision, and poetic intuition, producing wines of rare finesse, energy, and transparency.

Region and Vineyards

Pian dell'Orino cultivates approximately 6 hectares of vineyards, situated between 320 and 500 metres above sea level, across five key parcels in Montalcino. These include the iconic Bassolino di Sopra, located on the southeastern slope of the hill, as well as Pian dell'Orino, Cancello Rosso, Piandorino, and Scopeta. Each plot differs in altitude, exposure, and soil type, allowing for a nuanced range of expressions of Sangiovese.

The soils vary from schistous siltstones and calcareous clays to volcanic composites, particularly those influenced by the ancient Monte Amiata. All plots are farmed biodynamically, with strict attention to biodiversity, soil vitality, and canopy management. Cover crops, composts, and natural preparations are employed to foster balance and resilience in the vineyard.

The region's cooler microclimate and consistent ventilation from the Libeccio and Tramontana winds allow for long ripening periods and naturally balanced acidity. Every vineyard is vinified separately to capture its essence, resulting in a terroir-led portfolio where each wine reflects its origin with remarkable clarity.

Wine Range of Pian dell'Orino

Pian dell'Orino produces a focused selection of wines, all based on 100% Sangiovese:

Did you know?

Pian dell'Orino's wines are never fined, filtered, or made with added yeasts or enzymes. They also sort every berry by hand, one of the few estates in Italy to do so. This meticulous approach reflects the domaine's ethos: treat each vintage as a living entity, revealing the vineyard's voice with no makeup.

Jeb Dunnuck (JD) : 97 Points (2017)
The 2017 Brunello Di Montalcino Vigneti Del Versante is a rich ruby color with a tinge of light purple and perfectly clear. It offers ripe aromas of purple flowers, with sweet umami of porcini, fresh leather, pure, ripe cherry, and wet stone. It is full-bodied without being heavy and has wonderful balance without feeling over-ripe. A gorgeous wine with a lot of depth, including a note of blackberry, it is expansive and mouth-filling, with ripe structure, fresh acidity, and a lot to show off. (AF)

Vinous (Antonio Galloni) (VN) : 94 Points (2017)
The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Vigneti del Versante boasts a smoky mix of grilled sage and red currants that gives way to mint and tangerine notes fighting hard to be seen. This is surprisingly lifted and vibrant for the vintage, with tart red berries that cascade across the palate, accelerated by brisk acids and a salty flourish toward the close. It leaves a saturation of tannins, creating a youthfully dry wine with lingering hard red candies. The 2017 will need a little time to soften, but it has the balance to excel. There will be no Bassolino di Sopra in 2017 because all the fruit was used to bolster the Vigneti del Versante. (EG)

Pian dell
Pian dell'Orino Brunello di Montalcino Bassolino di Sopra 2015
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VN
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