Brundlmayer Riesling Zobinger Heiligenstein Lyra 2019

In spite of the moderate alcohol content in this context, this is quite a substantial wine with a ton of depth. Still a bit shy on the nose with lots of dried and fresh herbs, this is much more suave on the palate, until you get to the tightly wound finish that’s chock full of minerals. Better after 2020.

rom 40-year-old vines trained in the lyra system, Bründlmayer's 2018 Riesling Zöbinger Ried Heiligenstein Lyra 1ÖTW is a true challenge at this stage, young and tight as it is. Pure, clear, fresh, precise and deeply mineral on the concentrated, lemon-scented and coolish/earthy nose, with its notes of crushed herbs, stones and ripe (white) stone fruits, this is a full-bodied, intense, round and elegant Heiligenstein with freshness, crystalline acidity and a tight structure that gives lots of tension but keeps the finesse and elegance. The finish is highly promising in its dense and concentrated, only rudimental juicy character, which is as tight and tensioned as only a very few whites from Lower Austria are. In its unapproachable but promising character, this Heiligenstein Riesling reminds me of the great South Styrian wines from Armin Tement, even though the terroir and grape variety are completely different. Although I tasted this in July 2019 and several times and from different glasses in October, it's still hard to rate this wine, which is possibly one of the greatest Heiligensteins in the era of Willy Bründlmayer. Rating: 95+

A smoky touch of reduction still hovers on the nose of this wine. Underneath, apple freshness with an earthy, leesy touch and lots of lemon notes spreads across the linear palate. This needs time to unfurl but will do so beautifully. The finish is dry and long and has a wonderfully pure, almost transcendent lemon note. Drink 2020–2030.