Birichino Besson Vineyard Old Vines Grenache 2023

Region and Vineyards

Besson Vineyard sits on California's Central Coast and is celebrated by Birichino as one of the state's last remaining pre-Prohibition Grenache vineyards, planted in 1910 and farmed by the Besson family since the late 1940s. The site is described as warm, but emphatically not scorching, giving Grenache enough heat to ripen fully while preserving aromatic nuance and shape.

Its soils are a major part of the story: sandy, gravelly, rocky, loamy ground that invites you to think about texture as much as flavour. At a modest 100 m elevation, the vineyard still manages to produce a signature the winery calls unmistakable: a sense of "somewhereness" that reads as both sunlit fruit and unexpectedly fresh, almost alpine-toned lift.

Winemaking

This is a single-vineyard, varietal Grenache: 100% Grenache Noir, harvested on 26, 27 and 30 October 2023. Birichino positions 2023 as a standout vintage of its flagship, deliberately allowing extra time for the wine's site expression to clarify before bottling.

Ageing lasts 13 months across a mix of 228 L barrels and 450 L puncheons, building complexity while keeping the wine's perfume front and centre. In professional assessment, the wine is noted as being fermented using a combination of puncheon and barrique, underlining a cellar approach aimed at shaping texture and aromatic precision rather than overt sweetness or weight.

Tasting Notes

• Color: Bright garnet through ruby, with a clear, luminous rim that hints at freshness more than sheer extraction.
• Aroma: Botanical tinctures, red-fruit liqueur, and fresh floral tones, moving into savory accents and a striking, "unaccountably alpine" lift for such a low-altitude site.
• Palate: Lithe and lifted in the attack, then staining and saturated through the core, finishing long with grippy, fine-textured tannins and a poised line of energy.

Did you know?

Besson is among California's rare surviving Grenache vineyards from the pre-Prohibition era, planted in 1910 and cared for by the same family since the 1940s. Birichino also notes the broader Besson sites are farmed organically and without irrigation, an old-California approach that helps explain the wine's natural intensity and clarity.

Wine Pairing Ideas

• Herb-roasted lamb rack: Grenache's fragrant red fruit and savory edge love rosemary, thyme, and browned, juicy meat.
• Duck breast with cherry jus: The wine's floral, liqueur-like fruit notes echo cherry while tannins handle the duck's richness.
• Grilled tuna with olive tapenade: A classic "red-with-fish" match when the red is lifted and aromatic, and the dish brings umami and salt.
• Spiced pork shoulder: Gentle heat and warm spices amplify Grenache's botanical complexity without overpowering its finesse.

History of Birichino

Founded in 2008 by Alex Krause and John Locke, both seasoned winemakers with extensive experience in California and abroad, Birichino (meaning “mischievous” in Italian) embodies a spirit of creativity and exploration. The duo, who worked together at Bonny Doon Vineyard, brought their shared passion for old vines, traditional techniques, and non-interventionist winemaking to the project.

Birichino’s focus is on underappreciated varietals and vineyards with deep historical significance. With an eye for sourcing fruit from historic vineyards planted as early as the late 19th century, Alex and John prioritize sites that naturally produce balanced fruit requiring minimal intervention.

The name “Birichino” reflects their playful yet thoughtful approach to winemaking—a dedication to crafting wines that are both authentic expressions of place and delightful to drink.

Region and Vineyards

Birichino sources its grapes from a collection of unique and historically significant vineyards across California’s Central Coast, including Santa Cruz Mountains, Chalone AVA, Lodi, and Santa Clara Valley.

• Besson Vineyard (Santa Clara Valley): Planted in 1910, this site is known for its Grenache Noir vines, which produce elegant, aromatic wines with a distinct botanical freshness.
• Rodnick Farm (Chalone AVA): Previously known as Antle Vineyard, this site features granite and limestone-rich soils, yielding Pinot Noir and other varietals with a remarkable mineral character.
• Enz Vineyard (Lime Kiln Valley): A unique terroir producing wines with earthy depth and intense minerality, especially from old-vine Mourvèdre.
• Yount Mill Vineyard (Napa Valley): Historic Sémillon vines planted in 1962, known for their concentrated, low-alcohol wines with herbal and citrus complexity.

These vineyards, many of which are farmed organically or dry-farmed, highlight the diversity and history of California’s viticultural landscape.

Wine Range of Birichino

Birichino’s wine range reflects the diversity of California’s terroirs, combining a focus on heritage vineyards with a playful approach to winemaking. Each wine embodies the authentic character of the varietal and site, offering a spectrum of styles that appeal to both traditionalists and modern wine lovers:

• Pinot Noir: Elegant and terroir-driven, these wines showcase the cool-climate freshness and mineral depth of vineyards like Rodnick Farm and Besson. The Pinots balance vibrant red fruit with savory complexity, creating refined yet approachable expressions.
• Grenache: Highlighted by the iconic Besson Grenache Vignes Centenaires, these wines are aromatic, layered, and nuanced, reflecting the botanical freshness of century-old vines.
• Zinfandel: Crafted with restraint and finesse, Birichino’s Zinfandels emphasize the purity of fruit and structure, offering a counterpoint to the bold, jammy styles often associated with this varietal.
• Sémillon: A rarity in California, Birichino’s Sémillon from the Yount Mill Vineyard is bright, savory, and textured, with unique herbal and citrus notes.
• Mourvèdre: From old vines like those in the Enz Vineyard, these wines are earthy, structured, and profoundly mineral, reflecting their unique terroir.
• Sparkling Wines: Crafted using traditional methods, these effervescent gems balance lively acidity with elegant complexity, showcasing Birichino’s playful and versatile approach.

Each bottle is a tribute to minimal-intervention winemaking, allowing the personality of the vineyard and varietal to shine through in its purest form.

Did You Know?

The founders of Birichino are avid supporters of regenerative agriculture and minimal intervention in the cellar. Their wines often feature spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts, no fining or filtration, and restrained use of oak to preserve the purity of fruit and terroir.