Birichino Besson Vineyard Old Vines Grenache 2022

Region and Vineyards

The Besson Vineyard, established in 1910, is located in the Central Coast appellation near the foothills of the Santa Cruz Mountains. This 112-year-old site is dry-farmed, relying solely on natural precipitation, which contributes to the vines’ resilience and the wine’s intense concentration.

The vineyard’s Grenache Noir vines produce small, highly aromatic berries with a characteristic botanical profile and layered fruit flavors. The terroir’s balance of warm days and cool nights ensures a long growing season, enhancing the fruit’s natural acidity and the development of complex aromatics. The resulting wine reflects the vineyard’s heritage, marked by cherry liqueur richness, fine tannins, and a touch of alpine freshness that defines its unique identity.

Winemaking

The 2022 vintage marks another successful expression of the Besson Vineyard, merging the aromatic finesse of 2018 with the density and depth of 2019. Though the crop size was moderate, the quality far surpassed recent harvests, emphasizing aromatic precision and tannic structure.

Following Birichino’s tradition, a portion of the grapes was subjected to an appassimento-style process, where they were “rested” in picking boxes for 10 days post-harvest. This fraction was then fermented with its stems, undergoing an extended 6-week maceration, resulting in a tannic and botanical component that amplifies the wine’s signature alpine character. For the first time, small amounts of appassimento fractions from 2018, 2020, and 2022 vintages were blended, contributing 4% of the final wine.

The main lot included 30% whole stems during fermentation, which was carried out spontaneously with native yeasts in stainless steel tanks. Twice-daily pump-overs ensured optimal extraction. The wine was aged exclusively in neutral 450-500L puncheons to retain purity of fruit and subtle texture. As is customary, the wine was bottled in late summer 2023 without fining or filtration, preserving its vibrant and unadulterated nature.

Tasting Notes

• Color: Bright ruby red with a subtle garnet hue.
• Aroma: Intense and aromatic, with notes of cherry liqueur, dried herbs, and a distinct alpine freshness. Subtle undertones of botanical spice and earth add depth.
• Palate: Juicy and lively, with flavors of red cherries, cranberries, and a touch of black tea. The mid-palate is structured yet elegant, with stealthy tannins that emerge gradually, leading to a long, refined finish marked by freshness and minerality.

Did You Know?

The Besson Vineyard is over a century old, making it a rare and cherished site for Grenache Noir. Its dry-farming methods and historic vines produce a wine with exceptional concentration, aromatic complexity, and a unique expression of California’s viticultural heritage.

Wine Pairing Ideas

• Herb-crusted lamb chops: The wine’s tannic structure and botanical notes complement the savory and herbal flavors of lamb.
• Roasted duck with cherry glaze: The rich cherry and alpine freshness of the wine pair beautifully with the dish’s sweet-savory balance.
• Ratatouille: The vibrant fruit and herbal profile harmonize with the dish’s medley of vegetables and Provençal herbs.
• Mushroom and truffle risotto: The wine’s earthiness and tannic finesse elevate the umami richness of the dish.

History of Birichino

Founded in 2008 by Alex Krause and John Locke, both seasoned winemakers with extensive experience in California and abroad, Birichino (meaning “mischievous” in Italian) embodies a spirit of creativity and exploration. The duo, who worked together at Bonny Doon Vineyard, brought their shared passion for old vines, traditional techniques, and non-interventionist winemaking to the project.

Birichino’s focus is on underappreciated varietals and vineyards with deep historical significance. With an eye for sourcing fruit from historic vineyards planted as early as the late 19th century, Alex and John prioritize sites that naturally produce balanced fruit requiring minimal intervention.

The name “Birichino” reflects their playful yet thoughtful approach to winemaking—a dedication to crafting wines that are both authentic expressions of place and delightful to drink.

Region and Vineyards

Birichino sources its grapes from a collection of unique and historically significant vineyards across California’s Central Coast, including Santa Cruz Mountains, Chalone AVA, Lodi, and Santa Clara Valley.

• Besson Vineyard (Santa Clara Valley): Planted in 1910, this site is known for its Grenache Noir vines, which produce elegant, aromatic wines with a distinct botanical freshness.
• Rodnick Farm (Chalone AVA): Previously known as Antle Vineyard, this site features granite and limestone-rich soils, yielding Pinot Noir and other varietals with a remarkable mineral character.
• Enz Vineyard (Lime Kiln Valley): A unique terroir producing wines with earthy depth and intense minerality, especially from old-vine Mourvèdre.
• Yount Mill Vineyard (Napa Valley): Historic Sémillon vines planted in 1962, known for their concentrated, low-alcohol wines with herbal and citrus complexity.

These vineyards, many of which are farmed organically or dry-farmed, highlight the diversity and history of California’s viticultural landscape.

Wine Range of Birichino

Birichino’s wine range reflects the diversity of California’s terroirs, combining a focus on heritage vineyards with a playful approach to winemaking. Each wine embodies the authentic character of the varietal and site, offering a spectrum of styles that appeal to both traditionalists and modern wine lovers:

• Pinot Noir: Elegant and terroir-driven, these wines showcase the cool-climate freshness and mineral depth of vineyards like Rodnick Farm and Besson. The Pinots balance vibrant red fruit with savory complexity, creating refined yet approachable expressions.
• Grenache: Highlighted by the iconic Besson Grenache Vignes Centenaires, these wines are aromatic, layered, and nuanced, reflecting the botanical freshness of century-old vines.
• Zinfandel: Crafted with restraint and finesse, Birichino’s Zinfandels emphasize the purity of fruit and structure, offering a counterpoint to the bold, jammy styles often associated with this varietal.
• Sémillon: A rarity in California, Birichino’s Sémillon from the Yount Mill Vineyard is bright, savory, and textured, with unique herbal and citrus notes.
• Mourvèdre: From old vines like those in the Enz Vineyard, these wines are earthy, structured, and profoundly mineral, reflecting their unique terroir.
• Sparkling Wines: Crafted using traditional methods, these effervescent gems balance lively acidity with elegant complexity, showcasing Birichino’s playful and versatile approach.

Each bottle is a tribute to minimal-intervention winemaking, allowing the personality of the vineyard and varietal to shine through in its purest form.

Did You Know?

The founders of Birichino are avid supporters of regenerative agriculture and minimal intervention in the cellar. Their wines often feature spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts, no fining or filtration, and restrained use of oak to preserve the purity of fruit and terroir.