Sigalas VinSanto 2006

The 2005 Vinsanto is a 75/25 blend of Assyrtiko and Aidani, made in traditional fashion (sun-dried grapes for ten to twelve days). It comes in at 9% alcohol and 280 grams per liter of residual sugar. It was aged in barrel for 24 months. This is quite remarkable, not just because it is rich in flavor and very crisp (most of them are), but because of its ability to acquire some complexity at a fairly young age. The acidity makes this impressively gripping as it airs and warms. It lingers on the finish. It's not exactly muscular, but its lifted fruit makes it surprisingly lively for something that seems so flavorful and delectable. For all of the impressive features, it also seems rather elegant in the mid-palate. Overall, it's a brilliant young Vinsanto that should, barring cork failures, age effortlessly if well stored.