Quinta do Crasto Vinha Maria Teresa 2017

The 2017 Vinha Maria Teresa, a field blend from centenarian vines, was aged for 20 months in new oak (90% French, 10% American). It comes in at 14.5% alcohol. The final blend comes from the best-performing barrels. This was only in bottle about a month when tasted. This doesn't quite have the power of the Tinta Roriz, but it is only a small step behind. Yet the power is beautifully controlled. It never seems too astringent, even if burly at times. Of course, Maria Teresa always has beautiful structure. The key to this bottling is typically its personality, its lively fruit, its aromatics. The fruit this year is beautiful, delicious, very ripe and lingering on the gripping finish. It has focus and potential, but it certainly needs a lot of time. Could it be a little livelier and more lifted? Maybe. It might be a bit darker in flavor this year, more nuanced with plums, which became more obvious as it opened when retasted the next day. But I suspect most will like this just the way it is because it is awfully delicious. The next day it was still gripping and very long on the finish. It is on track to be another great Maria Teresa, the only question being how great. For that, we will need a little cellar time. Although it may well wind up approachable earlier, you'd be advised not to waste this small-production wine; give it a few years of rest, at least. Then, it should be a 30-year wine, more or less. That's something we'll have to check on as time goes on. There were just 6,555 bottles produced, plus some large-format bottles.

A lithe and elegant red, with hints of anise to the boysenberry and cherry flavors. Juicy midpalate, featuring loads of fresh acidity. Dark chocolate and peppery notes linger on the refined finish. Drink now through 2024. 480 cases made.

This field blend of 100-year-old vines is the top wine of Crasto. It is the full exposure, as well as the age of the vines, that produces the power and concentration of the wine. It does show its alcohol in the spice and pepper flavors which is a shame. Taste beyond that and the fruit is intense, black plum flavored and laced with acidity. There is no doubt this is a remarkable wine that will repay further aging. Drink from 2020.