Martin Muthenthaler Monopol Stern Riesling 2022

Region and Vineyards

The Viesslinger Stern vineyard, also referred to simply as Stern, is located in the cooler subregion of Spitzer Graben in the Wachau. This small, 0.7-hectare monopole vineyard is planted on steep terraces with schist-rich soils, which imbue the wine with intense minerality and structure. The vineyard’s high altitude and cool microclimate promote a slow ripening process, resulting in grapes with vibrant acidity and complex, concentrated flavors. Muthenthaler’s dedication to organic farming, though not officially certified, ensures that the vineyard is cultivated sustainably and with great respect for the land.

The combination of old vines, schist soils, and the cooler climate of Spitzer Graben is key to producing a wine with remarkable clarity and minerality, characteristics for which Wachau Rieslings are renowned.

Winemaking

The Monopol Stern Riesling is vinified using low-intervention techniques to allow the terroir to fully express itself. The grapes are hand-harvested from the vineyard’s 60-year-old vines and fermented in large oak foudres. After fermentation, the wine is aged for 12 months on its lees in a single 600-liter oak barrel, enhancing the texture and complexity without overshadowing the wine's natural fruit character.

This extended lees aging imparts a creamy texture and enhances the wine’s depth, while the choice of neutral oak ensures that the Riesling’s vibrant acidity and mineral backbone remain at the forefront. The restrained oak influence allows for a seamless integration of flavors, creating a balanced and sophisticated wine.

Tasting Notes

• Color: Pale yellow with bright green reflections.
• Aroma: The nose opens with intense aromas of ripe citrus fruits such as lime and lemon, accompanied by subtle notes of white flowers, stone fruits, and a distinct flinty minerality.
• Palate: On the palate, the wine is crisp and precise, offering flavors of green apple, pear, and citrus, along with a pronounced mineral streak. The acidity is lively, giving the wine a refreshing energy and ensuring excellent aging potential.
• Finish: The finish is long and focused, with lingering notes of saline and wet stone, leaving a lasting impression of freshness and complexity.

Did You Know?

The Stern vineyard is a monopole, meaning it is exclusively owned and farmed by Martin Muthenthaler. The vineyard’s name, “Vergelt's Gott,” translates to “God bless you” or “Thank you,” reflecting Muthenthaler’s gratitude for the land and his dedication to low-intervention winemaking. This wine is a tribute to the unique terroir of Spitzer Graben and its ability to produce Rieslings of great depth and character.

Wine Pairing Ideas

• Grilled sea bass with lemon and herbs: The bright acidity and minerality of the Riesling complement the delicate flavors of the fish and the zesty lemon.
• Asparagus with hollandaise sauce: The wine’s citrus and mineral notes cut through the richness of the hollandaise, while its herbal undertones enhance the asparagus.
• Roast pork with apple sauce: The fruity and acidic elements of the wine balance the savory richness of the pork and the sweetness of the apple sauce.
• Soft goat cheese salad: The tangy, creamy texture of goat cheese pairs beautifully with the crisp acidity and minerality of the wine, creating a refreshing combination.

History of Martin Muthenthaler Estate

Martin Muthenthaler took over his family’s vineyards in 2006, transitioning from a career as a mechanic to full-time winemaking. His approach has always been to allow the land to speak for itself, crafting wines that reflect the true essence of their origin. Since 2010, Muthenthaler has farmed his 3 hectares of vineyards organically, focusing on sustainability and preserving the environment.

His deep-rooted vines, many of which are over 70 years old, produce small yields but deliver highly concentrated fruit. He practices low-intervention winemaking, avoiding modern additives, and allowing the wine to develop naturally in the cellar. His preference for using old oak barrels instead of new oak highlights the wine’s inherent complexity without overpowering its fruit character.

Region and Vineyards

The Spitzer Graben is a narrow valley in Wachau, known for its steep, terraced vineyards and schist-rich soils. This cooler subregion has a unique microclimate that ensures slow ripening, resulting in wines with high acidity, vibrant freshness, and intense minerality. The extreme slopes of the vineyards make vineyard management challenging but contribute to the wine’s concentration and depth of flavor.

Muthenthaler’s vineyards are situated in premier sites such as Ried Brandstatt, Ried Bruck, and Ried Schön. These sites are known for producing some of the most mineral-driven wines in the Wachau, with the cooler climate ensuring long hang times for the grapes, allowing them to develop complexity and balance.

Wine Range

Martin Muthenthaler focuses on crafting a small, high-quality range of wines that showcase the diversity of the Wachau terroir. His wines are renowned for their purity, elegance, and vibrant acidity, and are often unfiltered to preserve their natural texture and character. Key wines in his portfolio include:

• Grüner Veltliner Ried Brandstatt: A complex and mineral-rich wine with subtle smoky nuances, aged in old oak barrels to allow the terroir to shine.
• Riesling Ried Bruck: A vibrant and structured Riesling with pronounced stone fruit and stony minerality, reflecting the rocky soils of the vineyard.
• Grüner Veltliner Gut am Steg: A precise, herbaceous Grüner Veltliner that captures the cool, mineral character of the Spitzer Graben region.
• Riesling Monopol Stern: A Riesling with rich fruit, fresh acidity, and a hint of salinity, matured in large acacia barrels to add texture and complexity.

Small Production, High Quality

One of the hallmarks of Martin Muthenthaler is his dedication to small-scale production. With only 3 hectares of vines, each bottle produced receives meticulous attention from the vineyard to the winery. This artisanal approach allows him to closely monitor every step of the process, ensuring that the wines fully express their vineyard origins with minimal interference. The result is a collection of highly sought-after wines that appeal to collectors and connoisseurs who appreciate authentic, terroir-driven expressions.

Focus on Sustainability and Natural Winemaking

Muthenthaler’s commitment to sustainability goes beyond organic farming. He practices minimal intervention in the winery, favoring natural fermentation and avoiding additives. His wines are often unfined and unfiltered, preserving the natural texture and full range of flavors. This approach allows the wines to develop naturally, reflecting their vintage and vineyard with honesty and purity. His use of old oak barrels and a preference for no new oak ensure that the wines retain their vibrancy, with subtle smoky or mineral undertones rather than overt wood flavors.

Cult Following

Though Martin Muthenthaler produces a limited quantity of wine, his reputation has grown significantly in recent years. He has developed a bit of a cult following among wine enthusiasts who seek out wines that highlight terroir and minimalism. His wines, particularly those from top vineyards like Ried Brandstatt, are considered highly collectible for their combination of precision, complexity, and ageing potential.

Did You Know?

The Spitzer Graben subregion, where Muthenthaler’s vineyards are located, is one of the coolest parts of the Wachau. The area’s unique microclimate ensures that even in summer, the evenings can be too cold to sit outside comfortably. This cool climate, paired with the schist-rich soils, contributes to the slow ripening of grapes, which is key to the wines' vibrant acidity and mineral complexity.