Sigalas Santorini Barrel-Fermented Assyrtiko 2015

The 2014 Assyrtiko Barrel Fermented is Sigalas' oaked version of the Santorini reviewed this issue, aged for six months in French oak (10% new; the rest fifth and sixth use). It comes in at 14.5% alcohol. This is a big boy, but it seems startlingly elegant in mouthfeel, with fine focus, good concentration, fine integration of its wood and a certain, surprising subtlety to it for an oaked Assyrtiko. Certainly, it does show some wood; it hardly has the purity of the unoaked version. Yet, it manages to pull things in nicely. It should continue to absorb the wood as time goes on. It succeeds because the fruit easily slices through the wood and the wine is impeccably well balanced. In the meanwhile, it adds a certain layer of power and flesh to the regular bottling. It has considerable bite on the stern, dry finish, too. It won't be as much fun to drink on its own, especially in its youth, but it will likely make a far better food match for stronger flavored foods. Overall, this is still a baby, but it's potentially brilliant, if unevolved. We'll see where we are in a few years. It's all about potential now, but I won't be surprised if it earns an uptick in score.