Joh Jos Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 2022

Region and Vineyards

The Mosel region, with its vertiginous slopes and ancient slate soils, produces some of the most ethereal and ageworthy white wines in the world. Among its legendary vineyards, Wehlener Sonnenuhr holds a preeminent position. Named after the sundial placed there in the 19th century by the Prüm family, this south-southwest facing site with 70% steep slopes benefits from optimal sun exposure and deep, weathered grey slate soils that impart unmistakable minerality.

The 2022 growing season was notably warm and dry, with minimal rainfall from March through early September. Green harvesting was employed to reduce vine stress and enhance both fruit concentration and long-term vine vitality. This proactive viticulture enabled a classic range of wines to be produced, despite the low incidence of botrytis, with Kabinett wines in particular showing remarkable clarity and lift.

Winemaking

Crafted from 100% Riesling, the grapes for this Kabinett were hand-harvested between 19 September and 22 October. The fermentation occurred with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel tanks, allowing the purity of fruit and terroir to shine through.

Joh. Jos. Prüm adheres to a minimalist, non-intrusive approach to winemaking. No oak is used, and malolactic fermentation is typically avoided to retain the signature freshness and crystalline acidity of the Mosel style. At 8% alcohol, this Kabinett balances low alcohol with intense flavour expression—hallmarks of a classic Prüm Kabinett destined to evolve gracefully over decades.

Tasting Notes

• Color: Pale lemon with greenish hues, shimmering with youthful clarity.
• Aroma: Bright and lifted, with notes of lime zest, blackcurrant (cassis), and white peach, underpinned by hints of fresh herbs and crushed slate.
• Palate: Lithe and vivacious, displaying a saline edge, taut acidity, and a finely etched slate minerality. The wine glides effortlessly, with delicate fruit sweetness balanced by a cool, stony precision and long, aromatic finish.

Did you know?

Despite its delicacy, the Kabinett style from Joh. Jos. Prüm is one of the most ageworthy white wines in the world. Thanks to its low alcohol, high acidity, and residual sugar, a well-cellared bottle can easily age for 30 years or more, developing complex tertiary notes of petrol, honey, and smoke—without ever losing its charm. This style is a benchmark for lovers of off-dry Riesling.

Wine Pairing Ideas

• Yellow chicken curry: The subtle sweetness and high acidity cut through the spices and enhance aromatic elements of the dish.
• Asian spring rolls: A perfect match for the wine's freshness, with lime and herb notes echoing the fillings.
• Grilled shrimp with lemongrass: Highlights the wine's zesty citrus and mineral backbone while complementing the seafood's sweetness.
• Vietnamese bánh xèo: The balance of crispy texture, herbs, and dipping sauce finds harmony with the wine's elegance and lift.

Manfred is certainly one of the world's more eccentric wine producers and a tasting in his drawing room with him is always enjoyable and entertaining.

In the Sonnenuhr of Wehlen he owns a portion of one of the Mittel Mosel's top vineyards. Its steep south-facing dark slate slopes tend to result in deeply flavoured, mineral yet rich and smoky wines.

In addition, he manipulates some plots in the next door Himmelreich of Graacher which produces engaging wines with fresh acidities that are slightly softer and earlier maturing.

These are unashamedly classic, exciting and long-lived wines produced predominantly in stainless tanks to avoid the addition of too much sulphur, though a small proportion of wooden casks are retained, however, depending on the vintage.

They are bottled later than most Mosel and often take a few years in bottle before showing the true character, but patience will be rewarded!