Friuli Wine Guide

Nestled in the far northeast of Italy, bordering Austria and Slovenia, the wine region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, commonly known as Friuli, is an often-overlooked gem of Italian winemaking. Far from the crowds of Tuscany or Piedmont, Friuli has forged a reputation for excellence, particularly for its white wines of great finesse and complexity, as well as for its pioneering role in the renaissance of "orange wines."

A Terroir of Multiple Influences

The uniqueness of Friuli's wines lies in its exceptional terroir, shaped by a dual influence. To the north, the Julian Alps protect the vineyards from cold winds, while to the south, the Adriatic Sea brings beneficial warmth and light. This unique geographical situation creates varied microclimates and significant day-to-night temperature swings, ideal conditions for developing intense aromas and preserving refreshing acidity in the grapes.

The region's soils are just as diverse. The plains feature alluvial and gravelly soils, especially in the Friuli Grave appellation, which yield fresh and fruity wines. On the hillsides of prestigious appellations like Collio and Colli Orientali del Friuli, the soils are predominantly "ponca," a mix of marl and sandstone of Eocene origin, which gives the wines remarkable minerality and structure.

A Rich History and Innovative Viticulture

Winemaking in Friuli dates back to Roman times. Over the centuries, the region has been subject to multiple influences, including Venetian, Austro-Hungarian, and Slavic, which have left their mark on the grape varieties and winemaking traditions. After the devastation of phylloxera, the region experienced a renaissance in the second half of the 20th century, shifting its focus to high-quality production.

It was in Friuli that modern winemaking techniques, such as cold fermentation, were perfected in Italy, revolutionizing the production of fresh and aromatic white wines.

The Kingdom of White Wines

Friuli is primarily celebrated for its white wine production, which accounts for the majority of its vineyards. The region excels with both international grape varieties and a host of high-value indigenous ones.

Emblematic White Grape Varieties:

• Friulano: Formerly known as Tocai Friulano, this is the region's signature white grape. It produces dry, straw-yellow wines with characteristic aromas of bitter almond, wildflowers, and pear.
• Ribolla Gialla: This ancient variety produces wines of great freshness, with crisp acidity and aromas of citrus and green apple. It is also the base for many macerated "orange wines."
• Malvasia Istriana: Distinct from other Malvasias in Italy, this variety offers aromatic wines with notes of exotic fruit, apricot, and a slight salinity.
• Verduzzo Friulano: Mainly used for producing sweet wines, it can also be vinified dry, yielding robust and tannic wines.
• Picolit: A rare and precious grape that gives birth to one of Italy's greatest dessert wines, the Colli Orientali del Friuli Picolit DOCG.

International varieties such as Pinot Grigio (which reaches peaks of complexity here, sometimes vinified in the "Ramato" style with brief skin contact), Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, and Pinot Bianco also thrive magnificently on Friulian terroirs, offering unique and elegant expressions.

Red Wines of Character

Although less famous, Friuli's red wines have a strong personality and deserve special attention.

Indigenous Red Grape Varieties:

• Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso: The most famous of the local red grapes, it produces wines with an intense purple color, aromas of black fruits (blackberry, plum), pronounced acidity, and tannins that can be rustic in their youth but soften with age.
• Schioppettino: A rare grape saved from extinction, it produces elegant and spicy wines with notes of black pepper, red fruits, and violet.
• Pignolo: Also a revived variety, it yields powerful, highly structured wines, rich in tannins and with great aging potential.

Appellations to Discover

Friuli's appellation system guarantees the quality and origin of its wines.

The DOCGs (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita):

• Ramandolo DOCG: An appellation dedicated to an exceptional dessert wine made from the Verduzzo Friulano grape, whose berries are dried on the vine or after harvest (a process called passerillage).
• Colli Orientali del Friuli Picolit DOCG: The sanctuary for Picolit, this sweet, elegant, and complex wine features aromas of honey, candied apricot, and acacia flowers.
• Rosazzo DOCG: A prestigious appellation for dry white blend wines, primarily based on Friulano.

Major DOCs (Denominazione di Origine Controllata):

• Collio Goriziano (or Collio) DOC: Located on the Slovenian border, this hilly area is renowned for producing some of Italy's greatest white wines, combining structure, minerality, and longevity.
• Friuli Colli Orientali DOC: Neighboring Collio, this vast appellation offers a wide variety of high-quality white and red wines, including specific sub-zones for grapes like Schioppettino.
• Friuli Grave DOC: The region's largest appellation, it produces more accessible, fresh, and fruity wines from its gravelly soils.

"Orange Wines": A Return to the Roots

Friuli, and particularly the Collio area on the Slovenian border, is the birthplace of the "orange wine" (skin-contact white wine) revival movement. Visionary winemakers like Joško Gravner and Stanko Radikon reintroduced ancient winemaking techniques, including long macerations of white grape skins in amphorae or wooden vats.

These wines, with their amber or orange hue, offer a unique aromatic complexity and tannic structure that radically sets them apart from traditional white wines.

Emblematic Producers

Friuli's reputation is built on the work of many talented winemakers. Among the most illustrious are:

• For classic white wines: Livio Felluga, Marco Felluga, Jermann, Schiopetto, Vie di Romans, Lis Neris.
• For "orange wines": Joško Gravner, Radikon, Damijan Podversic, Dario Princic.
• For sweet wines: Producers within the Ramandolo and Picolit appellations who carry on an exceptional craft.