Brundlmayer Gruner Veltliner Kammerner Lamm 2019

Brundlmayer Gruner Veltliner Kammerner Lamm 2019

 

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Brundlmayer
Gruner Veltliner Kammerner Lamm 2019
  • Vintage : 2019
  • Country : Austria
  • Region : Kamptal
  • Subregion
  • Type : White
  • Style Medium Bodied Aromatic Dry
  • Format : 75cl
  • Alcohol : 14,5°
  • Grappes : 100% Grüner Veltliner

Draws a broad arc that leads from hazel leaves over fully ripe apricot to bergamot orange. Crystal clear and multi-layered, very distinguished and with deep intensity that is still difficult to grasp. Chocolatey fullness and slowly fading oak tannins, but despite all its strength, finesse always sets the tone. A Grüner Veltliner that inspires dreams but shall require time.

Experts Score Vintage
RP Robert Parker 95+ 2019
JS James Suckling 96 2019
W&S Wines & Spirits 95 2018
WE Wine Enthusiast 94 2018
More information on wine critics and ratings

The vineyard site is located on the south-eastern slope toe of the Heiligenstein mountain, and is one of the warmest sites in the wine-growing region. The soil which is calcareous and loamy, has derived from the underlying loess. In the higher parts of the vineyard, towards the Heiligenstein mountain, siltstones and sandstones of the Zöbinger formation, which contain little or no lime, reach close to the surface.

Grapes from this site reach a high degree of ripeness and concentration, which bring a generous expression more generally associated with Burgundy varieties. While “Lamm” is the quintessence of a monumental Grüner Veltliner, it abandons the lightness and prickle that Grüner Veltliner usually stands for.
Physiologically ripe and botrytis-free grapes were harvested in small cases at the end of October and transported as expediently as possible into the winery. Grapes are handled carefully without the use of pumps, then slowly and gently pressed to allow some skin contact yet avoiding the transfer of too harsh tannins or cloudy residues into the must.

The must ferments in 2 to 3 years old 300-liter Austrian oak (and partly new acacia) casks. After fermentation the wine is racked into 2.500-liter oak or acacia barrels, together with 5 to 10 % of the lees where it remains until bottling at the end of August of the following year.

Tasting Note: Draws a broad arc that leads from hazel leaves over fully ripe apricot to bergamot orange. Crystal clear and multi-layered, very distinguished and with deep intensity that is still difficult to grasp. Chocolatey fullness and slowly fading oak tannins, but despite all its strength, finesse always sets the tone. A Grüner Veltliner that inspires dreams but shall require time.

Robert Parker (RP) : 95+ Points (2019)
The intensely yellow colored 2019 Ried Lamm 1ÖTW Kamptal Grüner Veltliner is deep, refined and pure on the very complex and intense nose that reveals a potpourri of aromas, including dried fruits, honey bread and flint stones. Pure, round, intense and salty on the palate, this a rich and powerful, tight and grippy Lamm that needs lots of time to start singing. Despite several tries in summer and autumn this year, I can't really articulate the true character of the 2019, which is quite ripe on the one hand but without the mineral, tension and vitality of the Käferberg or even the Langenloiser Alte Reben, yet there are some fights in the depth that probably need an outcome for a better performance. So for now, the finish is tight and almost a bit astringent and still doesn't sing or, at least, indicate anything but reasonable hope for a better future. Since the Lamm has never disappointed me (and is definitely the most complex of the GVs from this domaine), I am full of respect but have to conclude that this Lamm seems to be in a phase that doesn't show the best virtues of the 2019 yet. 13% alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted between June and October 2021.

James Suckling (JS) : 96 Points (2019)
Intensly herbal, but also subtle with very interesting smoky and sweet vegetal (think snow pea and chickpea) notes. This is a powerful but graceful wine that has great, citrusy and mineral freshness running through it. Stunning finish that leaves no doubt. Great aging potential. Drink or hold.

Wines & Spirits (W&S) : 95 Points (2018)
Ried Lamm sits at the far eastern edge of the Heiligenstein vineyard, a warm spot with deep soils of chalky clay and loess. In 2018, the Bründlmayers harvested their parcel at the end of October, when the grapes were very ripe yet still free of botrytis; they then fermented the juice in 300-liter casks (mostly Austrian oak, with some new acacia barrels), leaving it on the fine lees until the following summer. Right now, the oak is the first thing that reads in the wine, a rich, deep scent of freshly sawed wood. But give it a few hours open, and the oak subsides, revealing a delicious mix of smoky lees, browned butter and lemon supported by a firm mineral base. It’s a huge wine, Burgundian in its leesy, wood-driven character, grüner in its soil-driven texture and flavors, and absolutely delicious when taken all together.

Wine Enthusiast (WE) : 94 Points (2018)
Smoky nuttiness on the nose comes with just a glint of reduction. The palate then sweeps in with the juicy ripe fruit of redcheeked Mirabelle plums on a mellow palate that is given structure backbone by oak. This is full-on in every respect, a big, bold, fruity but structured mouthful that shimmers with peppery spice.

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Brundlmayer Gruner Veltliner Kammerner Lamm 2019 Reviewed by Robert Parker 09-09-2021 . Score: 5