Sigalas Kavalieros White 2014

The 2013 Kavalieros is an unoaked, single-vineyard Assyrtiko from old vines (60 years). It comes in at 14% alcohol. This bottling, relatively new, has assumed a very different personality in each vintage, it seems. This year, it seems better balanced between fruit and structure than the 2012 version reviewed last year, but it is hardly a small wine. This muscular, steely and tightly-wound Assyrtiko may in fact be more powerful than its predecessor as well as more complex (although not as rich). On opening, this has some hints of earth, stones and flint. It had a graceful demeanor, but it was also completely lacking in expressive fruit. It sang much prettier songs the next day, which is something I say a lot with fine Assyrtiko in general and Sigalas in particular. This finished with increasing persistence as it warmed, showing considerable grip and tension on the finish. Lacking that sexy demeanor of last year's version, it does sometimes seem to be a bit austere--but don't misunderstand, because it tastes pretty good, too. In fact, the key difference between day one and day two here was that the earth, minerality and tension on the finish no longer completely obscured the increasingly nice fruit as it warmed and aired out. This intense Assyrtiko is not going to be as much fun to just sip on its own as some are, at least not in its youth, but it is going to be just what you want as a great food wine. By day three, it was still gathering power. It seemed more intense and more brooding than ever, proving just how serious it is. It is still on the upswing and can improve. All that said, it does seem curiously closed and tight. It is about its potential just now. Let's be a bit conservative and check back in two to three years down the road. Although there isn't much track record with this bottling, it should age beautifully. You'd be well advised to give it another year, at least, in the cellar.