The Sonnenuhr Spätlese, from the heart of the great Brauneberger Juffer vineyard, really takes things up a level.

The German word Auslese [pronounced OWS-lay-zuh] means “ selected from the harvest,” and is a luscious, limited-production sweet wine made from very ripe clusters that are about 50 percent…

While initially quite closed on nose this is actually more plump with fruit than the Bernkastler tasted before; notes of marmalade, pink grapefruit, the noble bitterness of meadow herbs and sage.…