Gaia Wild Ferment Assyrtiko 2021

The 2021 Assyrtiko Wild Ferment, always unusual with a mixture of stainless steel, acacia, French and American barrels, comes in at 13.7% alcohol. When last seen, this was good, but it left me with my typical mixed feelings. I haven't always been sold on this bottling with the unusual flavor profile that often develops thanks to the varying vessels for aging, but this now seems to be a terrific vintage for it. It seems to be improving. The extra year of bottle age has helped it settle down and show its stuff. It is powerful and structured, reasonably deep and sensually textured. It integrates its parts well and nothing is too jarring. The long and gripping finish is impressive. It is also unusually pure, thanks to the settle-down time. I'm not sure I've liked one more (and yes, I have had some with some settle-down time). This is a year when this competes well with Thalassitis (reviewed in this report), even considering my personal biases in favor of the Thalassitis. We'll see which ages better, but this is also likely to hold well, perhaps better than indicated. Like Thalassitis, it could use a little more bottle aging, as this Wild Ferment might not be done improving. The Wild Ferment does seem a bit more approachable, though, a little more developed. We'll see which brand does better as time goes on. This has a shot at being the winner, but I'd still lean to Thalassitis.

This engaging Assyrtiko introduces itself with notes of sage and white pepper on the herbaceous nose, plus the faintest hints of vanilla thanks to fermentation in both stainless steel and acacia, French barrique and American oak barrels. There are lovely lemon pound cake flavors on the palate, with savory flavors and a citrus-driven finish that keeps perceptible sweetness beautifully balanced. It’s also vegan, in case that’s important to you or your drinking companions.

100% Assyrtiko. A whiff of white nectarine with a gunflint minerality and hint of spice. Lemony freshness, grapefruit and hints of wild flowers. Bone dry, with more peach and white plum characters on the palate and a softness on the acidity. Fresh and moderately aromatic; a pleasing alternative to a grand cru Chablis.

Don’t let the initial wood scents put you off: Give this time in the glass and they fade away, replaced by a cloud of leesy savour. It’s hard to pin down any specific flavors—it’s lemon one moment, cedar the next, with wheat berries, stone, salt and dried grasses swirling by—but it lasts, complex and intriguing. Play the wood notes off of grilled fish or mushrooms, with a squeeze of lemon.