Birichino Saint Georges Zinfandel Old Vines 2019

This bottling, mostly from 1922-planted vines, is a uniquely intellectual spin on Zinfandel, proving unlike most other takes on the grape and somewhat simple, yet constantly calling out for attention. Aromas of red plum, cranberry and light herbs lead into light strawberry, dried meat and more herb tones, as well as a hint of blood. These elements all grow more ethereal with time.

Jon Locke and Alex Krause pull this wine from a 90-year-old own-rooted vineyard just outside the Santa Cruz Mountains AVA. It’s a pleasure to taste over the course of a few days, starting out tart and crunchy, then filling out as dramatically as a spinnaker sail as it takes on air. Taut and generous at once, it’s refreshing and delicious. Best Buy