Abreu Thorevilos 2016

Phenomenal aromas of blackberries, fresh lavender, orange peel and hints of asphalt. Walnut shell, too. Full-bodied, firm and super structured with wonderful, chewy tannins and purity of fruit at the end. A joy to taste, even drink now, but needs time to come around. Try after 2023.

A stunner, with a seriously deep, dark core of warmed blackberry, black currant and fig paste flavors coursing along, laced with bay leaf, cassis bush, roasted alder, smoldering charcoal, cast iron and stone notes. The tarry structure will carry this through what should be a very slow evolution. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Merlot. Best from 2024 through 2040.

Another perfect wine, the 2015 Thorevilos comes in at 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Cabernet Franc, 15% Petit Verdot, and 4% Malbec. This riveting wine boasts heavenly notes of blueberries, cassis, camphor, graphite, and forest floor, with more floral nuances developing with time in the glass. With full body, a powerful, stacked, intense profile, shocking elegance and purity, and a massive finish, hide bottles for 4-5 years if you can – count yourself lucky – and enjoy bottles for just about as long as you'd like.

Probably one of my favorite vineyards in all of Napa Valley, even though it is not entitled to any particular AVA designation, is the steep hillside vineyard behind the luxury resort of Meadowood in St. Helena called Thorevilos. It is co-owned by David Abreu and Ric Forman. I have now tasted 16 vintages of this wine, and six and possibly seven (the 2015) have merited perfect scores, which is just mind-boggling even to someone who has been doing this for 38+ years. This wine contains a considerable quantity of Cabernet Franc (probably 30% or more, although Abreu and Grimes are never specific) and there may even be a small percentage of Petit Verdot included in the blend. This is always the most floral of the Abreu wines, but it also has what the French call je ne sais quoi, a quality that is hard to pin down. The 2015 Thorevilos is, like its siblings, inky blue/black/purple, with incredible amounts of flamboyant, majestic blueberry, blackberry and cassis fruit intermixed with raspberries, spring flowers, wet rocks, truffles and foresty notes. Incredibly intense on the palate, the blueberry and graphite character seems to come forward along with a suggestion of toast. It is an amazingly viscous, thick and juicy wine, but it cuts a ballerina’s silhouette across the palate, as there is no heaviness or boredom. This is an exhilarating elixir – no doubt about it. Moreover, it is another 50-year wine. Range: 99-100