Weingut Wittmann Morstein Riesling Grosses Gewachs 2023

Weingut Wittmann Morstein Riesling Grosses Gewachs 2023

 

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Weingut Wittmann
Morstein Riesling Grosses Gewachs 2023
  • Vintage : 2023
  • Country : Germany
  • Region : Rheinhessen
  • Subregion :
  • Type : White
  • Style : Medium Bodied Aromatic Dry
  • Format : 75cl
  • Alcohol : 13°
  • Grappes : 100% Riesling

A limestone-born Rheinhessen icon: Morstein GG 2023 fuses ripe citrus and stone fruit with cool, chalk-dust minerality, a taut spine of acidity, and silken texture—precision and depth for long, graceful aging.

Experts Score Vintage
RP Robert Parker 96+ 2023
More information on wine critics and ratings

Region and Vineyards

Morstein is a VDP.GROSSE LAGE on the limestone hills above Westhofen in Rheinhessen. The heart of the site lies between 180-240 m on south-facing slopes with gradients up to 20%. Topsoils are heavy clay-marl with limestone fragments; beneath, porous limestone channels water and minerals, ensuring vine resilience and a distinctively chalky profile. This matrix—warm, stony, and well-drained—yields Rieslings of concentration, salinity, and firm structure.

Weingut Wittmann farms Morstein biodynamically (certified organic since the late 1980s; biodynamic since 2004). The estate's contiguous holdings across Westhofen's grand sites benefit from the Rhine's moderating influence and significant diurnal shifts, preserving acidity while achieving full phenolic ripeness—key to the wine's tension and precision. Notably, Morstein is among Westhofen's most historic vineyards, first recorded in 1282.

Winemaking

This is 100% Riesling, harvested by hand from the Morstein Grosse Lage. Fermentation proceeds spontaneously with native yeasts in large, neutral oak casks (traditional Stück/Doppelstück of roughly 1,200-2,500 L), a regimen designed to emphasize texture and terroir rather than oak flavor. The wine is matured on fine lees in the estate's vaulted 19th-century cellar, building mid-palate creaminess and subtle savory complexity.

Typical analytical profile for the cuvée is bone-dry with moderate alcohol; the 2023 shows 12.5% vol. and a chiselled, saline line reflecting its limestone origins. Bottling precedes the VDP release on 1 September of the year following harvest.

Tasting Notes

  • Color: Pale lemon with green glints; brilliant clarity.
  • Aroma: Lemon zest, kumquat, mirabelle, crushed chalk, cool herbs (lemon balm, thyme), subtle flinty reduction.
  • Palate: Taut, bone-dry and intensely mineral; citrus-pith drive over chalk-salt depth, fine phenolic grip and vibrant acidity; exceptionally long, precise, and ageworthy.

Did you know?

Morstein is one of Rheinhessen's oldest documented crus—first mentioned in 1282—and Wittmann raises its GGs almost exclusively in large old oak, a house style that has helped define modern dry Rheinhessen Riesling. In 2023, Morstein GG drew exceptional critical acclaim, including 100 points from James Suckling and 98 from Vinous.

Wine Pairing Ideas

  • Sea bass with lemon-brown butter: saline minerality and citrus cut enrich the dish while cleansing butterfat.
  • Roast chicken with tarragon and fennel: herbal lift mirrors the wine's cool-toned aromatics; acidity refreshes.
  • Pork schnitzel with capers: bright citrus and chalky grip slice through crisp fat, echoing caper salinity.
  • Aged Comté: nutty umami resonates with lees texture and stony depth.

Robert Parker (RP) : 96+ Points (2023)
Compared to the Brunnenhäuschen, Wittmann's 2023 Morstein Riesling GG is light and clear but also still very reduced in the fresh and mineral, even savory and precise nose, which is still restrained in the fruit. Pure and extremely salty on the palate, with a very firm and grippy structure and an almost dry/drying minerality, this Morstein draws saliva. It seems more austere and sinewy here and now than the Brunnenhäuschen, and it's still extremely influenced by limestone. This is a great and promising wine. Tasted at the Vorpremiere VDP.Grosses Gewächs in Wiesbaden in August 2024. In another tasting two days earlier at the domaine, the 2023 Morstein showed a wonderfully chalky, elegantly fruity and balanced nose. Pure and with citrusy freshness as well as chalky salinity, this is a ravishingly fine, elegant and clever Morstein that is light-years away from the abundance and power of the 2000s and early 2010s. This is vibrant and stimulating salty and truly reminiscent of Champagnes from the Côte des Blancs. A magnificent Morstein!

Weingut Wittmann Riesling Trocken Estate 2023
Weingut Wittmann Riesling Trocken Estate 2023
Weingut Wittmann
Riesling Trocken Estate 2023
RP
92
This elegant dry Riesling introduces the Wittmann estate style with precision and finesse, showcasing Rheinhessen limestone and biodynamic farming in every sip.
24,20 €
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