Cloudy Bay Te Koko 2019

Pristine aromas of sliced limes, lemons, green melon and hints of lemon grass follow through to a full body with dense fruit, yet framed by a lightly phenolic texture that holds the whole thing together, tightening the fruit in the center-palate. Beautiful finish. One of the best ever.

Intense and focused, with wonderful purity and sophistication to the fresh yuzu, vetevier, sea salt, Meyer lemon and fresh grated ginger flavors. Sleek and mouthwatering, while the intensity continues to gain on the finish.

In recent years, Cloudy Bay has curbed its enthusiasm when it comes to making Te Koko, and that's a good thing. New oak has fallen to around 10%, as has the ratio that undergoes malolactic conversion (between 1996 and 2009, this cuvée was 100% mlf). Round and supple, this offers tangy notes of fresh black currant, white flowers, nettles and subtle passion fruit. Balanced yet linear acidity provides length and purpose on the fragrant, drawn-out finish. A couple of years in bottle has allowed the components to harmonize; this is drinking beautifully now but will hold. Drinking window: 2020 - 2025

Cloudy Bay's 2016 Te Koko Sauvignon Blanc is marked by scents of pencil shavings and citrus fruit on the nose, while the medium-bodied palate features a silky texture allied to bright acidity that calls to mind certain well-made Pessac-Léognan whites. Rather taut and linear, it could use another year or two to settle down, although it will likely never be as opulent or generous as the wonderful 2015.

Jim White blends this wine from six vineyards, the fruit hand-harvested from three subzones—Rapaura, Renwick and Brancott. He allows it to ferment spontaneously and slowly in French oak barrels (eight percent of them new), where it then rests for 15 months. As the wine opens in the glass, it displays creamy richness and saturated passion-fruit flavors, smoky lees scents and an almost searing limelike acidity. Still young, this will benefit from several years of bottle age.

Cloudy Bay was established in 1985 by David Hohnen, having previously founded Margaret River’s Cape Mentelle in 1970. Sauvignon Blanc was the first wine to be produced, quickly becoming instrumental in gaining New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc a worldwide reputation for quality. Having cemented its status as an iconic brand, the estate was bought by Louis Vuitton-Moët Hennessy in 2003 and is today set across seven vineyards in Marlborough’s Wairau Valley. Introduced in 2000, Te Koko was the forerunner of a new, more full-bodied style of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc fermented using indigenous ‘wild’ yeasts in French oak barrels, less than 10% of which are new. Rebecca Gibb MW: Notes of blackcurrant, nectarine and green capsicum come together harmoniously in this light-bodied, crisp and vivacious Sauvignon Blanc. Roger Jones: This has evolved beautifully; an elegant, buttery nose unveils a zesty and bright palate offering enticing notes of lemon curd and citrus peel, while restrained acidity fuels a lovely, lingering finish. Phil Tuck MW: Rich creamy oak on the nose; there is a good overall balance here and it has held up very well in bottle, with a perfectly-pitched oak influence that has not swamped the fruit.

As more wineries have adopted this style of Sauvignon Blanc, Te Koko isn't the standout wine it once was. That doesn't mean it's not still excellent. The 2015 Te Koko offers pungency and passion fruit on the nose, followed by a wine of great concentration and intensity. Hints of struck flint add complexity, while the mouth-filling palate boasts a rich, multilayered texture and a lingering finish. Only 8% aged in new French oak and about a third of the wine went through malolactic fermentation, leaving it with crisp acids and a great sense of elegance and balance.

The most recent release of Te Koko seems tamer, more controlled than some previous vintages. It's Graves-like in style, offering up toast, vanilla and passion fruit notes, ample weight and a fine, silky finish that goes on for minutes. It embodies elegance and precision in place of wildness and raw power.