Bodegas Pintia Pintia 2018

Brooding but fresh nose, with tarry blackberries and fresh blue fruit. Iron, wet stones, violets and a hint of mocha, too. Full-bodied, mineral and broad on the palate with a stony feel, though not heavy at all. A really elegant, nuanced and extremely poised Pintia that you can enjoy now and for the next decade. A really eclectic Pintia showing more elegance and calculation.

The 2018 Pintia comes from a cooler and wetter vintage when the grapes were picked between September 20th and October 7th, and it fermented in their new fermentation room where they feel they can be more precise. The wine still has 15% alcohol, with a pH of 3.82 and 4.6 grams of acidity. It had a shorter élevage this year and matured for 10 months in French and 18% American oak barrels, 81% of them new. The nose is very expressive, with bright cherry fruit, and the wine is fresher than the norm in the region, with integrated alcohol and oak, reflecting a very cool year, floral and perfumed. The palate is medium-bodied and reveals very fine and elegant tannins. This has to be one of the finest vintages of Pintia.Rating: 95+

A balanced red, with steeped raspberry and wild strawberry fruit flavors framed by fine, lightly chalky tannins. Offers accents of licorice, smoke, spice box and citrus peel that lace the fruit flavors, with lively acidity carrying through to the lightly chewy finish. Drink now.

Saturated ruby. Expansive cherry, black raspberry, potpourri and exotic spice aromas are complemented by subtle licorice and woodsmoke flourishes. Vibrant and sharply focused in the mouth, with a spine of juicy acidity adding focus to palate-staining black and blue fruit liqueur, violet pastille, mocha and spicecake flavors. The floral quality resonates emphatically on the clinging finish, which features lingering cherry and smoky mineral notes. There's noteworthy elegance here, a trait that's not exactly common for Toro.

Toro used to resist taming. With 2015 Pintia is showing the results of work started in 2008 on the vineyard and in the winery. The palate will always be dense – after all, this is Toro. But the aromatics are tempting, with lively refined oak and red fruits. The acidity is bright. It's a wine that needs time. My score is 93-plus – I'd like to come back to it nearer its drinking time and reassess it. Pintia is emerging as a relative of Vega Sicilia that’s very much worth following.